1. Check the Damper Plate (located on the engine flywheel inside the bell housing) for worn spline coupling, loosen of center hub and loose or damaged springs. Replace if there are any defects.
2. Flush oil cooler hoses and inspect for defects. Replace if necessary.
3. Replace the transmission fluid cooler (required by transmission warranty). Boats operated in very warm water, at high RPM or under heavy loads may require a larger cooler.
4. Insure that the cooler is located after the water filter and ahead of the engine cooler. If possible, the cooler should be at or below the level of the transmission.
5. Check the water pump impeller. Replace if worn or damaged. Proper water flow is critical for for both the engine and transmission.
6. If not already equipped, consider installing a heat alarm on your transmission. If the ATF exceeds 190 degrees the anti-foaming agent breaks down. Foam in the fluid causes loss of pressure in the hydraulic system leading to clutch plate slip and heat damage.
7. Check the prop shaft for looseness or binding. Most noise that seems to come from the transmission is actually from the prop shaft, damper plate or the engine.
1. Insure that the transmission fluid pump is correctly indexed for the engine rotation. THE TRANSMISSION WILL NOT OPERATE IF THE PUMP IS NOT SET FOR THE SAME ROTATION AS THE ENGINE! Series 5000 units (2001 & 2002) operate only with engines that turn clockwise as viewed from rear of engine. Call us if you have any question about this.
2. DO NOT paint the output flange surface that mates to the prop shaft coupling. 3. Insure the transmission is supported during installation so that no weight or twisting force is placed on the damper plate hub. It not designed to hold the weight of the transmission and is easily damaged.
3. To prevent damage to the output shaft oil seal and bearing insure that the alignment of the prop shaft and transmission couplings is within .003 inch or better. Alignment must be done with the boat in the water! Thirty-six (36) to fourty-eight (48) hours (48 is better) should be allowed for the hull to resume proper shape after being hauled.
4.INSURE THAT CABLE TRAVEL AND BRACKET ADJUSTMENTS TO CONTROLS AT ALL STATIONS MOVES THE TRANSMISSION SELECTION LEVER TO THE EXACT POSITIONS INDICATED BY THE DETENTS ON THE TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER CAUTION On ALL Velvet Drive models, execpt2001, 2002, 3001, 3002 and 1026, Series transmissions, damage will result if the shift cable is attached so the transmission is operating in reverse to achieve forward direction. At the helm station place the shift lever in forward. Check to insure that in forward the transmission shift lever is moved toward the engine. Operation in reverse to achieve forward direction voids the warranty.
5. Fill the transmission with DEXRON/MERCON ATF or oil, of the type recommended by the transmission manufacturer, to the top (hot) mark on the dipstick. DO NOT USE SYNTHIC ATF CAUTION Do not operate transmission above 2500 RPM when using oil instead of ATF. Motor oil does not have anti-foaming agent and foam in the oil will allow clutch plates to slip, overheat and burn out. Start engine, run at low idle for 10 seconds, stop engine and refill to mark. Start the engine and at low idle place in forward for 15 seconds, return to neutral at least 5 seconds and place in reverse for 15 seconds, return to neutral, stop engine and check fluid level. Repeat until there is no change in fluid level then run in neutral at idle speed while checking for leaks. This procedure will insure proper lubrication of the transmission during the initial fill and check out.
1. Always start and run engine for 1 minute then shut down engine and quickly check transmission fluid level. This allows fluid to be pumped into the cooler and hoses that may have drained back into the transmission giving a false reading. If fluid is discolored or smells burnt, the transmission is failing and should be serviced.
2. Water leaking into the ATF via the cooler makes it look like strawberry milkshake! Just draining the transmission and refilling it will not remove all the water! Some water will always remain in the clutch cylinders. As quickly as possible remove the transmission, drain and refill as full as possible with ATF, motor oil, kerosene, diesel fuel or paint thinner. Have the transmission disassembled and cleaned. NEVER ADD TRANSMISSION STOP LEAK TO A MARINE TRANSMISSION! None of the gaskets or seals are affected by it and stop leak will just gum up the tiny lube ports, etc.
3. Because your transmission uses hydraulic pistons to activate the forward and reverse clutch pacts several seconds should be allowed, in neutral, when shifting between gears. This will allow time for the clutch pistons to release. It is possible to shift so quickly that both forward and reverse are engaged at the same time leading to burnt clutch plates and possible total transmission failure.
4. Too fast shifting and shifting at above idle RPM is the most common cause of trans- mission failure! Always be sure engine is at idle before shifting into gear! In marine transmissions the clutch packs turn at the same RPM as the engine. Tremendous strain is placed on the clutch packs and associated parts when going into gear at higher than idle RPM. You don't rev your car engine and slam it into gear, do you? High RPM shifts are OK for drag racers but not boats.
5. Velvet Drive transmissions (except5000 & 7000 series) have the fluid pickup located at the bottom-front of the unit. When mounted at a high angle or used in boats that run with the bow very high these units can suffer fluid starvation. High operating temperatures and/or clutch slippage will result . It may be necessary to add fluid above the normal dipstick mark. Unlike auto transmissions this will not hurt Velvet Drive marine transmissions. 6. Change the transmission fluid every other time the engine oil is changed. It's really cheap protection for an expensive transmission. Please call us if you have further question